Kickstarter: UNDONE Urban Chronograph

At first glance, the 1140 PT L Blue exhibits a simplicity that conceals the complexity of its creation. The construction method and craftsmanship used are deliberately intended to appeal to connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. While some design elements and finishing are clear to see, others are virtually hidden. This new model complements the Jurgensen 1745 collection as a blend of the most precious examples of craftsmanship, Urban Jurgensen Hands, Guilloche and white gold appliqués with an in-house P4 movement.

> The 40mm classic case design used in this reference, has a round form, teardrop shaped lugs and stepped bezel combined with exquisitely finished dials and hands. Urban Jürgensen hands are very much hand-made. They comprise a significant number of components that are individually honed, assembled and finished.

> This naturally implies numerous hours of highly skilled workmanship which is a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The white gold arms of Urban Jürgensen hands are cut from solid white gold and manually finished to ensure a perfect shape and fit.

Numerous hours of diligent polishing with increasingly fine grained diamond paper are followed by mirror polishing using secret types of polishing paste applied using a variety of wooden pegs specially shaped for the task. Its asymmetrical design, gently tapered towards the tip, ensures a unique elegance. This unwavering commitment to excellence is further exemplified at the very centre of the dial, in the precision-turned and mirror-polished solid gold hand pipes (also known as bushes), around which the arms are riveted to ensure a perfect ft.

Urban Jürgensen are considered masters of the art of the hand finished guilloche dials. In the new model, it can be appreciated in the vast attention to detail in the dial layout and pattern selections Grains d’orges and Guilloché Damier. Each dial requires up to 700 operations and takes two full days of hand work to complete on a guilloche lathe. After engine-turning, the dial is repeatedly brought to Rose heat and treated with acid to produce the unique warm colour by developing a fine layer of pure silver on the surface finally the dial is imbued with the proprietary Urban Jurgensen blue.

The White Gold Urban Jürgensen Arabic numeral appliqués are inspired by the hand painted enamel and grand feu dials of our historic pocket watches – an inspiration that imparts almost impossible challenges in crafting them in solid gold. Transferring the long extremely thin lines painted in a “1” or a “2”, or the small “+” on a “4”, is a challenge very few masters today. It is simply very difficult and delicate work.

The Urban Jürgensen numerals cannot be stamped out. They are cut in several cutting processes from a solid gold sheet to arrive at the final shape, followed by an extremely delicate polishing process finished by hand to arrive at the fine “bombé” pillow shaped profile. And because they are so fine in the details, no two sets on two dials are identical.

Technical details

REFERENCE 1140 PT BLUE

Limited Edition – 30 Pieces

Movement

Urban Jürgensen Movement P4

Swiss Lever Escapement

Manual winding

Hours, minutes, small seconds

Adjusted to temperature, isochronism in five (5) positions

Stop seconds

Twin barrels

Autonomy: 72 hours

Frequency: 21’600 V/h (3 Hz)

Twenty-three (23) jewels

Diameter: 32.00 mm

Thickness: 5.20 mm

Case

Platinum 40 mm Round 3-piece case, with a convex bezel

Individually soldered teardrop lugs

Domed sapphire crystal

Open back with flat sapphire crystal

Water resistant 3 ATM

Dial

Circular brushed chapter ring

Hand finished guilloché dial on one piece solid silver

Urban Jürgensen domed platinum Arabic numerals

Blue coloured Silver dial

Hands

Hand made solid White Gold

Diamond polished eye in White Gold

Strap

Alligator skin

Length 115/75mm, width 20/16

Custom made sizes available on request

Semi-matt blue

Other colours are available on request

Delivered exclusively with solid platinum folding buckle and clasp


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Source : http://www.masterhorologer.com/2017/08/urban-jrgensen-reference-1140-pt-l-blue.html

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