His pattern making has always been innovative but stark and striking. His new line amalgamated the timeless quality of eastern classic silhouettes with international trends, thus bringing a certain amount of disobedience to his collection.
Setting aside traditional cuts and the production of men's and women's wear, the designer brought an intelligent merger of the rough textiles and sheen along with his characteristic flowing, straight or crooked, light with heavy structures.
The new colour palette shown by the designer was the surprise element of the show which stayed loyal to black and charcoal grey but brought in pops of lavender, dark burgundy, air force blue or cadet grey.
Men's wear had the characteristic asymmetric silhouettes for waist coats and kurtas. Short coats had interesting small lapels, but Sherwanis and a variety of baggy trousers and kurtas were often teamed with lapel coats. Knit Sherwanis, collarless shirts and shawl collar jackets made great fashion statements.
Women's wear had a gentle, feminine, touch with stark shapes. Asymmetrical, double-breasted coat and dress were simple with machine embroidery; while jumpsuits with side pockets looked comfortable and relaxed.
The double-breasted dress with a soft backless coat, grey midi with cowl cover, two-toned kurta, maxi dress with asymmetric cover and rouched back drape proved it was a balanced collection.
It seems this will be a rare occasion when the world won't object to fashion followers being 'Disobedient' since they will make a strong style statement with Ujjawal Dubey's Antar Agni label.
Meanwhile, Designer Divyam Mehta unveiled his serene, sophisticated collection on Day 4.
The inspiration for the collection were the draping styles of the Buddhist monks with the multiple layers and interesting waist belts.
Mehta's 'The Black Monk' collection at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 had subtle glamour and drapes that offered a feminine as well as masculine look.
The designer dreamt the collection predominantly in black and cement grey. The effortless styling was interpreted with layered drapes, skirts, and relaxed wide leg monk trousers, an assortment of wraps and robes that exuded easy fluidity. Divyam also took a hint of inspiration from the artworks of French artist Jean Degottex to give a more comprehensive angle to his theme and designs.
The delicate Shibori patterns and interesting block prints gave an innovative texturing to the handloom wool and matka silks. But it was the imaginative Kantha work from Bengal and the thread embroidery that finally completed the ethereal look.
The men's wear started with a fluid kurta and loose trousers, black/ white coat, cropped/crushed shirt and dhoti pants. The low buttoned double-breasted jacket with draped baggy pants was an interesting addition. The cowled waistcoat worn with matching pants and jacket was an unusual version; while the Sherwani/shawl and bundi/kurta combos with asymmetric lapels and the black/white poncho with low-crotch pleated pant further confirmed the theme of the show.
Women's wear was as spiritual in nature with draped front-tied skirt and coat, asymmetric layered dress, an interestingly draped sari, toga-style midi, black sack dress and skirt, kimono cover and draped dress.
Other designers who showcased their collection were Anushree Reddy and SVA who showcased the beauty of Indian crafts.
The designers brought royal bridal glamour to lakme fashion week winter/festive 2017
The inspiration was the Princess Niloufer of Hyderabad and daughter-in-law of the Nizam of the State, the collection was a royal bridal offering.
Reddy known for her splendorous wedding trousseaux unveiled another breath-taking collection called 'Niloufer' at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017.
Anushree recreated the nostalgic, classic, silhouettes and styles of yesteryears. Using soft luxurious fabrics like pure hand woven ahimsa silk, dreamy organza and pure organic mulmul along with amazing texturing, the designer ensured that the ensembles were truly fit for a princess.
Lush pure fabrics appeared in a delicate colour palette with glittering embellishments. Shades of peachy pink worked with burnt orange, sunset yellow, ink blue, magenta, ivory and gold along with the soft pastels.
Detailing came in the form of scallops, frothy frills, ruffles, and lots of layering for the voluminous as well as clean silhouettes. There was an enchanting blend of European styles from where Princess Niloufer hailed to the rich heritage embroidery of the Nizam era.
Making a dramatic entry was the pale green, layered organza lehenga worn with an off-shoulder yellow embroidered cropped top. The magenta gown with an embellished frilled edged short cape was a stunning ensemble that worked the fusion look perfectly.
Scalloped embroidered blouse on a tulle layered lehenga gave serious princess vibes, intricately embellished soft pink sharara set along with solid coloured lehengas with cold-shoulder blouses and clever surface ornamentation created an interesting balance on the ramp.
A few men's wear pieces were introduced by the designer, Band-gala Sherwanis in pastel hues and refined embroidery with minimal detail looked classic chic.
There were easy to wear pieces, which could come together effortless as separates for every occasion.
Bollywood actress Nargis Fakhri looked dazzling as she took the runway in a mustard scalloped zardosi lehenga with an ornate silk blouse and a delicate dupatta draped gracefully.
Meanwhile, SVA by Sonam & Paras Modi unveiled the essence of chinar trees with their collection.
The beauty of the Chinar trees in Kashmir has inspired numerous artists and designers.
The label by Sonam and Paras Modi presented their 'Naseem Bagh' collection inspired by the Chinar leaves with elements and motifs from the Kashmir Valley.
The bespoke pieces were created in luxurious velvets and silks along with a lavish dose of silks.
The characteristic Chinar leaves and Himalayan bulbul were translated into prints and embroidery to add majesty to the regal garments.
Ideal for the winter weddings, the collection offered grand jackets, ornate kurtis with elegantly draped pants as well as the ever-popular luxurious lehengas and saris.
For the groom the label had the traditional jodhpuris and an innovative line of cascade jackets along with embellished dupattas.
Innovatively draped saris with sheer embroidered pallavs and corset belts looked contemporary yet elegant by all means. Embroidered floor length jackets and off-shoulder asymmetrical blouses with scattered embellishments looked ravishing on voluminous velvet and silk lehengas. The palette comprised bold hues ranging from black and gold to tangerine, crimson and cobalt blue.
Printed Sherwanis for men in bright hues were created by the designer as a break from the regular options for the grooms and successfully delivered them on the runway.
Bollywood actress Vani Kapoor looked like a modern day royalty as she walked the ramp in a scarlet lehanga set with a stylised blouse accessorized with a metallic belt.
The look created by Lakme Makeup Expert, Sandhya Shekar was kept very fresh and pastel, while being classic and vintage.
The look was very Nawab- inspired with the use of colours like rust orange, bronze and gold dust used on the eyes to become synonymous with the collection. (ANI)
Source : https://news.webindia123.com/news/Articles/India/20170819/3171683.html